1. Honda Atv Programmers

.This is an.I finally found the time to take the 1978 Eldorado out of winter storage.

I have blower and temp problems. I believe I have 2 separate issues-1 with the blower and the other with the heat/temp selector. Because it was summer, I have not done much with the temp selector issue-but with fall in the air, a little warmth mite be nice.The a/c works well and is cold. The system puts the flow to the dash vents as required. When I turn the temp selector up to 85 there is no change. I believe the position selector on the dash works well- I hear vacuum releases when I move the selector. The blower works on low speed in vent, off and Auto Low which I believe is per the system design.

Honda Atv Programmers

When I move the selector to the middle Auto position the blower increases to what I think would be speed 2. When I put the selector in high, the blower increases again but perhaps to speed 3, not to full power. When move it to fog it goes down to the same speed as auto which I believe is correct and when in Ice it goes to the same speed as Hi which again I would believe is only speed 3. Once the blower went to the full hi position when the selector was in Hi but that is the only time it has happened.

When I remove the electrical connection from the power module and jump what I believe are wires 18y and 12t I get a nice hi blower so I do not believe there is a bower electrical problem. I have read that there is a dedicated circuit for the hi positions but it appears to not engage other than the 1 time. I have cleaned the wipers on the power module but I really don't know how to check it. I have refurbished the blower relay and it does work- I hear it click when it is turned off the low positions. Basically I have no temp control and only partial blower control.With it getting colder, I can get heat by just hooking a vac line directly to the power module, but obviously I'd like the system to work normally.Does anyone have a good troubleshooting manual for these? I have looked on-line and hve read the shop manual but still no luck.

I don't want to just start shotgunning the problem-My poor old Visa will only go so far.Thanks,Jeff. I have a thorough manual for this system.

The manual explains how the system works, how to test each part, and how to troubleshoot the system. No special tools required except a simple voltmeter and a vacuum gauge. This manual is far better than the shop manual because no special equipment is needed, and most common and real world problems are addressed. I have sold well over 400 of these manuals, which are year specific (1969-70 the same).The manual is $45 plus $6 US shipping. Any questions you can email me at tagroves@wctel.net or call during regular business hours at 864-352-3306 (eastern time zone).Tim.

I have three 1970 Cadillacs and repaired all of the climate control systems so they work perfectly, please buy Tim's book that is 50% of how I did it. The exact same thing happened to me and it is likely to be the transducer or the amp (or both) in the dash unit. There are several other items it could be and they are listed in Tim's book, every time the a/c worked and heat would not come on that was the problem. You should also have the shop manual. Having the a/c refrigeration circuit work is a huge plus. This work is not difficult if you take the time to read and know your way around a multi-meter.If you want to completely destroy your system bring it to a shop that is not endorsed by numerous other successes with Cadillac climate controls. I restore other club members Cadillac climate controls and much of the problems are past butchers claiming to be mechanics, screwed sensors, cut wires, not plugged in wiring harness, failing to install O-rings and the like.If you do remove the dash unit it is fastened with five screws total, one in back and four in front.

Install all four screws. I have seen where people only install the bottom two because the top are almost impossible and the plastic pieces the bottom ones screw into break off without the top screws installed.Once you do get this fixed, keep up with it. Unfortunately used parts are the only way these dash and servos can be re-built and they don't last like new parts obviously if you drive your car.Enjoy your Cadillac,Scot. Jeff,From your initial post I would venture to say you have already jumped into the job of sorting out your Automatic Temperature control (ATC). I would first suggest you verify that the heater core is connected to the (engine) cooling system, and if there is on that the manuual shut off valve, frequently installed in the heater water lines is not closed.That said I will strongly recommend you get a factory service manual. All of your car's systems and components and their functions are very well explained.

By following the manual and verifying all your ATC components are installed and connected as well as ALL the vacuum lines (check for poor connections and leaks) for all actuators, etc. Intact.Once you have verified your systems are as the factory intended, the diagnostics matrix in the manual will pinpoint the area of your problem. These manuals were intended to be used by the average automotive mechanic to diagnose and repair ATC systems. There were very few 'specialists' in 1970.Greg Surfas. Apply vacuum to the servo vacuum actuator, if the arm moves to the heat position as it did when you operated it manually it is likely the transducer is bad.

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If the application of vacuum on the servo does nothing servo actuator is bad and needs to be replaced. On my 1970 Cadillacs the weak link was always the transducer. It is such a pain to replace, I went to the 64-68 nice rebuild-able transducers and mounted it in a convenient to replace location. I'm doing this repair on one of my Caddies now if you want me to shoot a picture over let me know. Yes, a picture would be great. Are the 70 transducers rebuildable?

I stuck my head under the dash when I adjusted the neutural switch and saw the lines going to the transducer-so I know it's there, somewhere. Looks like it will be a pain to get out.The power servo works when vacuum is put to it.

In fact I have a little piece of vac line tucked awa in the engine compartment. When I want heat, I just run a line directly from the vac storage tank to the servo. All heat and I mean all the time. Nice and hot. When I shut the car down it holds the vac for quite a while so there is no leak-at least at the servo.Jeff.

Here is a picture of the transducer from a 1964-68 Cadillac installed - make sure the body of it is well grounded.The programmer behind glove box comment does not apply here as it was introduced in 1971 and the 1970 Cadillac does not have it.The transducer on the 1969/1970 climate control is a little crummy thing and cannot be re-built, and when you receive a re-built dash unit, it usually includes a used functioning transducer that has not lasted more than two years or so for me. From 1964 thru 1968 a nice cigar shaped re-buildable (and adjustable, via screw at opposite end of vacuum connections) was used under or behind glove box. I connect the two wires from 1970 dash hook up for transducer and run extension wires down to the transducer from a 1964-1968 Cadillac. The cigar shaped transducer tucks away nicely under the dash.

Plus if it ever fails again, very easy to replace, and not difficult to get re-built or find a good used/NOs transducer. Most of the time when my Caddy goes into high a/c the transducer failure is the culprit. This car in the photograph is operating right now same as you with full vacuum to servo, and lower windows to regulate temperature.The dash unit receives a current ran thru three temperature sensors that vary resistance as temperature changes and then this is converted to a voltage 0- 12 volts that operates the transducer. This part of the dash unit that makes the 0-12V signal to transducer is called the amplifier.

Your dash unit could also have a bad amplifier. You will need to turn the temp wheel while measuring DC volts going to transducer to see if there is some variation to be sure amp is good.Unfortunately you likely will need to remove that dash unit and it is a pain getting those two top screws out, which you must re-install - don't get tempted to leave them off or the plastic piece in dash that the bottom two screw into will break off after a while. However, once this dash unit is removed and the transducer relocated after verifying that amp is good, you should not have to remove it again.Cadillac Tim sells the transducers, re-built dash units and the manuals, which are great to have. Even if you decide to use the standard 1970 small not rebuild-able transducer, I would relocate it so you don't have to remove dash unit again.Good luck and enjoy your Cadillac.Scot. Jeff,You are welcome. I like to have my 1970 Cadillacs in ready to drive across Country readiness.

No 43 year old rubber pieces, fuel lines, brake lines, shocks, springs suspension parts seals, and etc on my car. I completely go thru them mechanically, and still sometimes have problems but nothing that can't be worked thru. I have replaced body to frame bushings (no creaks, great handling), replaced rear suspension bushings, timing chain, most things.

If you need to know anything more let me know. Jack stand is how I roll (in garage). All instructions in shop manual where you need to get under the car specify jack stands, not a lift. Everything can be done with jack stands and that is what I use. My ceiling in garage is not tall enough for a lift, but the problem with a lift is it kills the space and unless you use a lift frequently it is more trouble than it is worth.

Only a professional shop can really justify the lift. For suspension work you need a press. I got one from Harbor Freight for real inexpensive-works great.Enjoy your Cadillac! Well, you were right. Dove into it yesterday.

Verified the amplifier was working per the instructions in the manual so that is another sign it is the transducer. Tried to take the main head out but couldn't even find 1 of the 2 top screws for the main unit. The manual says you can get the transducer out without removing the unit, and I did that. Tried to open it up but no luck.

Cleaned it up as best I could and spayed cleaner in there but it didn't help. So, I will put it back together and rig something up for now and will look for the older unit transducer.

Thanks for your help.Jeff.