How To Crack A Browning Prosteel Safe

Posted on 09.12.2019

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Browning Prosteel Safe Specs
How To Crack A Browning Prosteel Safe Combo
Browning Prosteel Safe Manual

My first safe was not fire lined. I have regretted that ever since.

I have others now, but as I am a firefighter by trade, I tend to look at worst case scenarios. You know your budget, you get what you pay for. Where is the Cannon safe made? Is it rebranded from somewhere else? Does it include transport? I went with a company about 15 miles from me that has a scratch and dent sale now and again. Price included delivery as well as bolting down to the floor.

Another thing I did was pick up an old Post Office safe. Does not fit rifles well though.I own a Liberty Fat Boy Jr. And a Browning Pro Steel as well as the postal safe.So, Fire lined, good lock. As a guy told me one time, 'the guy who can get into your safe is going to be robbing my store, not your house'. Don't get one with a key, use a combo lock. My first safe was not fire lined. I have regretted that ever since.

I have others now, but as I am a firefighter by trade, I tend to look at worst case scenarios. You know your budget, you get what you pay for.

Where is the Cannon safe made? Is it rebranded from somewhere else?

Does it include transport? I went with a company about 15 miles from me that has a scratch and dent sale now and again. Price included delivery as well as bolting down to the floor. Another thing I did was pick up an old Post Office safe. Does not fit rifles well though.I own a Liberty Fat Boy Jr. And a Browning Pro Steel as well as the postal safe.So, Fire lined, good lock.

As a guy told me one time, 'the guy who can get into your safe is going to be robbing my store, not your house'. Don't get one with a key, use a combo lock.

Just my.02.Since its from costco delivery would be up to me. I'm looking into them a little more now that I got home and finished shoveling the snow. More so I was looking for people who have purchased one of these safes from costco. All of the above. Why would you say it isn't a safe?Because the metal on the body will be thinner than your car's door.

Without knowing the exact model you're looking at I bet it is somewhere around 14-16ga which is easy to break into. Lock boxes, security containers, and safes all have certain requirements to meet that classifies what that container is. Just because it looks like a safe doesn't mean it really is.:shocking:Not saying it wouldn't work for you but realize it is on the bottom of the safe world. As for fire protection keep ammo OUT of the safe because if there is a fire and the safe gets too hot, the ammo will start popping off. This will cause the temperature inside to increase which can burn documents, melt stuff, ect.

Because the metal on the body will be thinner than your car's door. Without knowing the exact model you're looking at I bet it is somewhere around 14-16ga which is easy to break into.A car door is in no way close to 14-16ga.

The outer skin of a door is half or less of 16ga. The mirror-patch is thicker.How do people break into one anyway? Metabo cutoff wheel?

Both of those would take a fairly organized hit.I would be more worried about someone karting it off fully loaded and thus put effort into bolting it down. A car door is in no way close to 14-16ga. The outer skin of a door is half or less of 16ga. The mirror-patch is thicker.How do people break into one anyway? Metabo cutoff wheel? Both of those would take a fairly organized hit.I would be more worried about someone karting it off fully loaded and thus put effort into bolting it down.For the car door comment it was sarcasm, but in reality 14ga (.0747') is pretty thin in the safe world.Bolting down a safe helps, but isn't the best way to secure it.

The body is the thinnest and easiest part to cut into. The best way to secure a safe is to build a cement and steel walls around it and bolt down. Plus don't forget to not advertise you have firearmsexpensive stuff, hide the safe, and layer your security (dog, cameras, alarm, ect). I have a similar safe, it is really not all that secure. They are cheap gauge metal, and the fire protection is drywall. They work to keep people to right away, but 10 minutes with a few simple tools will have you into this thing like a can of sardines.

Literally, angle grind down the sides and peel it back. These are good as part of a layered security system. Great if your particular state has firearm storage requirements and you don't want kids or others just picking them up ect. But as far as how dependent they are varies. Bolt it down, tell as few people about it as possible, try and not show anyone. Place it somewhere traffic to your house will likely not see that often(workers included) and you generally should be good to go.

It's just another layer in your level of security imho. You start talking real safes, they weigh big weight, are usually expensive although deals can be found through local locksmiths or craigslist ect. Sounds like for now it should fit your needs. Just don't over compensate it's abilities in your mind, be realistic.and always buy bigger than you need, those damn things get lonely in thereand seem to multiply! Before you know it you wish you had more room!

I've had one I got at TS about 5 years ago. Mine might be a little skinnier. No problems with it. Its in my bedroom and I built a fake dresser that goes around it with a swing out front door as some camouflage. People that don't own guns see something this big and start thiking you must have gold and diamonds to get such a big safe.I honestly do not open it very often. If I did I think i'd change the batteries more often. The key pad has a back light which is good at night.

If you do not have any guns out for defense the keypad is what I would recommend to get in fast. Takes me less then 20 seconds to be ready to rock.

I do wish the buttons could be silenced. Smooth operation of door. Very tight tolerances. Some good hang on door storage and a couple ways to set it up.I got mine to keep the kids safe as well as guns and ammo secure from low level thieves.Honestly any thief that wants to cut into the side of this thing making that much noise is welcome to it.

Every safe out there has a flaw and spending 10 grand to get a swiss safe that needs a moving crew to get it in the house aint on my priority list. I moved mine alone using a 600 pound dolly as I was able to back my pickup to the door and ramp it right in.

I seriously doubt a free delivery will do anything but drop it on the curb. Take an old refrigerator box and cover the safe. Cut the back out of the box so it slips right over the safe. Nobody walking by will give it a second look! I also agree on bolting it to the floor and/or wall.

The fewer people know that it exists, the better.In my old neighborhood, the perps were likely to be 'friends' of children/grandchildren that 1) first found out about the gun/coin/knife collection at the family's residence, and then subsequently found out 2) when said family was not at home. Do you have a link?It was on ADVrider.com, but in their forum that requires you be logged in as a member.

Here is the original post:'Hey all.So my FIL gave the wife and I a gun safe for Christmas a couple years back (Cannon Safari Safe). It has a digital keypad on it, and has been pretty much flawless except for one battery change. A week ago, the wife went to get her carry out, and the keypad wasn't responding, so she changed the battery to a new 9V. That didn't work, keypad still not responding, all though some lights were still working periodically. Fast forward to yesterday, 3 more tries with 3 new batteries over the last week and still nothing is working.Over the last week I've sat in a que waiting for a customer service rep to answer.nothing. Sent and email yesterday and within an hour got someone to call me back.

We tried a number of things with the keypad, and still not able to get it to work. CSR told me he was willing to send me a new keypad and locking mechanism for free.only problem is it's different than what is on there right now, and I still have to get the damn safe open to do anything with it.

They are refusing to cover the cost of a locksmith.After sending pictures to a local locksmith, they inform me that they can get into the safe, but they will need to talk to Cannon directly to get the drill points. Also, they inform me this is going to cost me $700 to $900 to have done.F ME! $10K worth of possessions in a $250 safe, and I have to shell out $700+ just to get the fucking door open to my possessions.Anyone here ever dealt with something like this? How would you proceed in getting the safe open.or am I just SOL, and pretty much just have to pony up.? This is extremely frustrating to say the least.I am going to try one more time this evening with a new battery to see if the lockout feature just got overly pissed, and locked me out for much longer than the normal lockout period.other than that, guess I'll have to pay up.All the digital ones ive seen have a key over ride behind the key panel.I thought that as well, but apparently not all of their models do. How much are the items inside it worth? Do you care to lose them?I love it when people spend $500 on something to protect thousands of dollars of firearms or irreplaceable items.

While no safe is tamper proof, but the costco safe is a tin can and can be pried open. I have a custom 4ga safe being built right now. The door is 4ga over the standard 10 gauge. Just pony up and get it right the first time.

Especially with sentimental items that cannot be replaced.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201701d5a8bc1c8667243ba384d96c5.jpg. How much are the items inside it worth?

Do you care to lose them?I love it when people spend $500 on something to protect thousands of dollars of firearms or irreplaceable items. While no safe is tamper proof, but the costco safe is a tin can and can be pried open. I have a custom 4ga safe being built right now.

The door is 4ga over the standard 10 gauge. Just pony up and get it right the first time. Especially with sentimental items that cannot be replaced.I think most people that buy gun safes like the ones they sell at Costco buy them for firearm safety and or the fire rating, If someone really wants to get in to one, they are going to get in.Perhaps if you feel the need to have a safe made with 4 gauge steel, you should just 'pony up' and move to a nicer area. There's a specialist on YouTube that has proven many safes can be unlocked with just a earth magnet too.my gun safe is the space between my pillow and mattress.lolSent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'd have a helluva time sleeping if all my guns would somehow fit under my pillow.I'm of the school that a safe(or container) is better than no safe, and you can always upgrade. The used safe market is strong, and residual values are good.I bought a Cannon from Academy sports many years ago, it served me well, and kept my firearms and other valuables secure.

I eventually outgrew it, and bought a much nicer, higher end safe. I'm in the city, so the opportunity for someone to actually crack a safe(or container) is very limited, alarm system, cameras, etc. Many people don't bolt their safes down, that is the bigger risk, the Cannon is pretty easy for 2 guys to move on a two wheeler.The biggest complaint I have seen from the lower end 'containers' is the electric locks. I went old school, not as fast, but dead nuts reliable. My dad has the big Cannon safe from cosco and while it has never had a digital lock failure he really liked the fact that it had the key back up.

Its a nice safe nothing really fancy but you get what you pay for. The shelves are made of MDF so they don't take much weight but he easily made his own shelves out of solid wood and it turned out really nice. When he had it apart he also added another layer of 1/2' drywall for fire protection.Unless you spend 7-10x this generally someone could get in a safe by flipping it over and taking an ax to it. Best protection is concealment in a closet and bolting it through the floor.Other option, no one wanted to move it so got it cheap at an auction.

It weighs 3k lbshttp://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2471&pictureid=61372. Wow, I didn't think this thread would take off like this.I'm not worried about someone taking my guns and ammo etc I live in a nice area and myself and my neighbors keep an eye out for each other.I'm simply looking for a more secure place to store my guns and ammo and it looks like this Cannon safe will fit the bill.Thanks for all the replies by all means keep it goingHow does the interview go with the police when interviewing the neighbors after your home gets broken into.

'This is such a nice, quiet neighborhood, something like this has never happened here', etc. Believe me, if a thief wants or knows you have something they want, they'll find a way to get it. In and out fast.I live in a retirement, upper middle class hood with only two ways in and out. Just had a home broken into and guns were stolen. Took the thief 2 minutes start to finish. All the neighbors that were interviewed were either out running errands, taking a nap, or on the phone and didn't see a thing.

I happened to have a video of the perps vehicle the police wanted.:thumbup. Doubleot^^^^^^^^^exactly, that's where most of us are at ( it does not take much of safe to keep the grand kids out).even fire protection, it in the basement with no fuel load within 20' Surrond by concrete.like so many things in the garage, some have to take to the extreme levels, Even when moderate protect is all that's needed or wanted.Ahole. It took two minutes to get into your ( neighbors) cannon safe!!!! To get your ( neighbors) guns????

Common on.BSThat's why I have insurance.take reasonable protection against a known reasonable risk. Costco online has a couple in your price range ($200 to $300 off)These things weigh over 400 lbs but free delivery is includedhave one similar to this although it has better specs (ie. Thicker metal, better fire protection, etc.).

One thing to note (at least when I purchased), I was able to call Bighorn and request a manual combination vs. The electronic lock with no change in price. Not sure if that's still an option.

Mine's worked well for keeping things secure knowing full well that nothing is impenetrable. My dad has the big Cannon safe from cosco and while it has never had a digital lock failure he really liked the fact that it had the key back up. Its a nice safe nothing really fancy but you get what you pay for. The shelves are made of MDF so they don't take much weight but he easily made his own shelves out of solid wood and it turned out really nice. When he had it apart he also added another layer of 1/2' drywall for fire protection.Unless you spend 7-10x this generally someone could get in a safe by flipping it over and taking an ax to it. Best protection is concealment in a closet and bolting it through the floor.Other option, no one wanted to move it so got it cheap at an auction. It weighs 3k lbsbeen watching CL for something like this for the last year.

I found a Mosler an hour away for $500, responded, and it was long gone. I'm simply looking for a more secure place to store my guns and ammo and it looks like this Cannon safe will fit the bill.Don't do it. I just bought a safe and was ready to pull trigger on a 64 gun Cannon from Tractor Supply that was $1,000 + 10% off = $900ish.Went and looked at it - cheap material, cheap metal, junk lock and bad layout. Instead, I paid more than twice that for a different safe and 100% happy.

Ended up about $1,000 over budget, but buy once cry once. A safe isn't a consumable - you buy one and keep it forever. But something that will last that good quality.If you watch sales, you can get a pretty good deal. Field and Stream runs Liberty Fatboys 48 gun for around $1,200 on sale and they are great safes.

Unfortunately, I fell in love with the Browning rifle door storage and was sold. Got a Hells Canyon 65 gun safe and it will be with me for life. They are around $2,800 and I ended up paying like $1,900 at F&S after 2 months of waiting on it to show up.

Sorry its a waste of money IMO, If price and good looks is your determining factor and not real fire protection and security then most big box stores and brand names will have what you want. You may also be just as happy with a general locking/combo cabinet and have more money in your pocket. If you want real fire protection and security you will have to look someplace elseOnce you educate yourself about safes on youtube and the internet, (there are great videos on the topic) you will see your basically buying a general cabinet with a nice paint job and interior from big box stores and most brand names. The minimum that would slow down a thief is 4 gauge steel and a S&G lock. Some of these safes sold at big box stores can be punctured with a good kick from a steel toed boot.

18, 16 14 gauge is laughable when they call them safes, they are residential cabinets. Long story short in the beginning of my safe search I was considering big box stores and well known brand names. I now feel they are junk.In the end I had a safe made by homeland safes. Built like a tank with 4 gauge steel, hardened lock plate, expandable gaskets for stop smoke damage and has a honest fire rating. It was a bit more money to have built but it was not that much more considering what you get. Buy right the first time and have no regrets.

How much are the items inside it worth? Do you care to lose them?I love it when people spend $500 on something to protect thousands of dollars of firearms or irreplaceable items. While no safe is tamper proof, but the costco safe is a tin can and can be pried open.

I have a custom 4ga safe being built right now. The door is 4ga over the standard 10 gauge. Just pony up and get it right the first time.

Especially with sentimental items that cannot be replaced.bad the hinges are on the outside. Hard not to have a weak link somewhere I guess.

Perhaps if you feel the need to have a safe made with 4 gauge steel, you should just 'pony up' and move to a nicer areaYou really think thieves only go to 'bad areas' to steal stuff? Smart bad guys go to good areas because they know that's where they can find nice stuff.I live out in the country, and we have virtually no significant crime, but I still have what most would consider a decent gun safe.Liberty National Magnum 50 which has 7ga walls and 131,000btu and 2.5hr fire rating. It's not a true high-security safe, but it's much better than typical gun safes.I would have bought a true high-security gun safe but knew we were going to be moving in two years and it wouldn't have been easy to take with us and at 1,600lbs, this one was enough of a challenge.After watching the videos of people popping normal gun safe doors open in a very short time I decided to spend a little more. I have individual guns which are worth more than the cost of the safe, so it's all relative. In my long term plan I may actually build a concrete vault for it in the basement, but until then I doubt the normal thief will defeat it. Ok a few points.

I did skip a few of the posts but i was reading the same misconceptions.The key under the pad only bypasses the pad. It does ZERO when the little $10 solenoid that actually opens the safe fails.

If you own an electronic lock on your RSC get to know your locksmith, and get the solenoid on a maintenance replacement plan. Expect to pay $55-70 for replacement solenoids.Even then they are still a gamble. They are the same style as the electronic entry door. We all know how well they work.Not all electronic locks are replaceable with dials. Little things like, the hardplate are in the way.External hinges are a Plus. You can remove the door to move it, you don't have 6x8' holes in your fire insulation that you have with your internal hinges.As was said previously, the hinges have nothing to do with the door security when its locked.

Its all the pins retaining the door in the body.Another option for US made safehttps://www.sturdysafe.com/. Who knew there were such things as safe snobs?:dunno:^^^^^ +1It's called insurance. I don't need a mega safe in my house.I have made a reasonable attempt to secure my guns for firearm safety.USAA has 'Valuable Personal Property' insurance.

For $10 a year, my firearms are covered against theft, damage (if I dropped a rifle for example), etc etc. The deductible is ZERO, NADA, NOTHING. (Guns get stolen - I get new replacement guns for free)If I didn't want to pay the $10 annually, my guns would fall under my regular homeowners insurance and would still be covered, but I would have to pay my $1,000 deductible.

If that was the case - it wouldn't make sense to spend over $1,000 for a safe? ^^^^^ +1It's called insurance. I don't need a mega safe in my house.I have made a reasonable attempt to secure my guns for firearm safety.USAA has 'Valuable Personal Property' insurance. For $10 a year, my firearms are covered against theft, damage (if I dropped a rifle for example), etc etc. The deductible is ZERO, NADA, NOTHING. (Guns get stolen - I get new replacement guns for free)If I didn't want to pay the $10 annually, my guns would fall under my regular homeowners insurance and would still be covered, but I would have to pay my $1,000 deductible. If that was the case - it wouldn't make sense to spend over $1,000 for a safe?Safes are not only for firearms.

Insurance companies are real bitches about claims and can play the depreciation game on your stuff, so be careful. ^^^^^ +1It's called insurance. I don't need a mega safe in my house.I have made a reasonable attempt to secure my guns for firearm safety.USAA has 'Valuable Personal Property' insurance. For $10 a year, my firearms are covered against theft, damage (if I dropped a rifle for example), etc etc.

Not to sound like a prick but this thread is full of misinformation.I'm a second generation locksmith, safe and alarm tech. I've authored articles for SAVTA and while I will not pretend to know everything in this this field I am considered to be an expert.No safe or vault is burglary or fire proof.Real security:Security is all about layers. Never rely on a single layer for all your security.

Ideally your home should have security lighting on the outside in addition to cameras and signage of an electronic alarm system. Every perimeter door should have a Deadbolt. Your alarm system should have sensors on all doors/windows. Further more you should have interior protection with motion detection and glass breakage sensors. My commercial clients have sensors on their safe doors and some have seismic sensors to detect someone cutting/drilling the safe. With all that being said you still should be looking at a safe as an investment and the last line of defense in your security layers.Anchoring:Anchoring your safe is essential to the security.

I get sob stories every week from people calling to see if someone has asked me to open their safe that was stolen out of their home.Don't use the cheap anchors that come with the safe (plastic expansion) for concrete anchoring. I use Simpson tie concrete epoxy for retrofitting foundations. Bore a hole clean it out and squirt some into the hole. Cut a threaded rod use a large washer with a nut and push down from inside the safe. Let set for 24 hours and your can tighten the nut if necessary.

For second floor installations I would recommend large toggle bolts or cutting access panels for thru bolting.Mechanical safe locks:mechanical locks have downfalls as well. They should be maintained (most people don't know this) by a trained safe tech. The lock is fully disassembled then cleaned.

How to crack a browning prosteel safe key

Browning Prosteel Safe Specs

Wheels and flus are inspected for smooth operation and a very very very small amount specific grease (older version of the grease was carcinogenic) is applied only in specific areas. No lube sprayed. Less is more. When properly maintained a mechanical safe lock can last a hundred years. A UL listed group I or II is what you want for a mechanical lock.Electronic safe locks:I sell 99 electronic locks to one mechanical lock. I find that amsec ESL10 is one of the most reliable locks in the market.A lock I like for its mechanical backup/redundancy is the securam extreme. It's gives you the quick access of an electronic lock with the redundancy of a mechanical lock all in one package.Anyone looking to upgrade to electronic should contact a local safe tech as a small mistake in retrofitting a lock can cause a costly lockout.Safe construction:The thicker the steel on all six sides the better.

I prefer a concrete lining and not drywall. Concrete releases moisture at a slower rate compared to drywall for a better fire rating.

It also makes for a heavier safe and a more difficult safe to cut into with traditional drills, saws, etc.Look for a safe with a UL burglary rating. At minimum an RSC. If you can afford a TL rated safe that's a definite improvement. Further if you can afford a TLx6 (all six sides have same protection level) it's even better.I can go on for ever and will post more later. I'm home for awhile as we just had our first daughter on 12/31 so I am taking off some time.

If you guys have specific questions please feel free to ask. You really think thieves only go to 'bad areas' to steal stuff?

Smart bad guys go to good areas because they know that's where they can find nice stuff.I live out in the country, and we have virtually no significant crime, but I still have what most would consider a decent gun safe.Liberty National Magnum 50 which has 7ga walls and 131,000btu and 2.5hr fire rating. It's not a true high-security safe, but it's much better than typical gun safes.I would have bought a true high-security gun safe but knew we were going to be moving in two years and it wouldn't have been easy to take with us and at 1,600lbs, this one was enough of a challenge.After watching the videos of people popping normal gun safe doors open in a very short time I decided to spend a little more. I have individual guns which are worth more than the cost of the safe, so it's all relative. In my long term plan I may actually build a concrete vault for it in the basement, but until then I doubt the normal thief will defeat it.If need be, I move my Fort Knox safes with my skid steer forks.

Safes are not only for firearms. Insurance companies are real bitches about claims and can play the depreciation game on your stuff, so be careful.Here is what USAA has on the paper work about the valueGunsIf your gun or gun accessory was:ｷ Purchased within the past five years, we値l accept the purchase price plus applicable sales tax.ｷ Inherited or purchased more than five years ago and is currently being manufactured, we値l accept the current retail value plus applicable sales tax. Provide us with the name of the retailer or manufacturer and the date the value was obtained. Otherwise, an appraisal is required.For example, I have a couple of S&W 38 specials I bought over 30 years ago - they are still making them, and there current msrp is $749, but they are selling for around $680 - who would of thought?https://www.galleryofguns.com/Genie/Results.aspx?pg=bids&id=9266N&zipcode=92503&wh=P. Here is what USAA has on the paper work about the valueFor example, I have a couple of S&W 38 specials I bought over 30 years ago - they are still making them, and there current msrp is $749, but they are selling for around $680 - who would of thought?you'll never have to find out if the fine print gets you.

I have 0 faith with insurance companies and it wouldn't surprise me if they fuck you over. They do it with tools and a firearm is exactly that.

I really dont understand you. I guesss Im just fricken stupid to your idea and wisdom. My ammo has been perfecrt safe in the safe and it will unless you start a fire in the safe, I dont see that happening and I have never heard of it happening, except for maybe you kept litmus batteries in there too.Let's talk about safes and their fire protection, and we'll use the safe doubleot asked about.

Cannon states the safe provides 1200.F fire protection for 60 minutes. This means Cannon stuck the safe in a kilm, furnace, ect. And monitored the internal temperature of the safe. Once the inside temperature of the safe exceeded 350.F the test is over. So that's where the 1200.F 60 minute fire protection comes from.Paper starts to turn yellow at 300.F but guess what starts going off before that?.22 LR start popping off at 275.F,.38 Special at 290.F, and 12ga at 390.F. Each time a round pops it starts increasing the internal temperature quickly, so multiply that by a few hundred or thousands of rounds and now everything you were trying to protect is gone.Now lets go back to the 1200.F 60 minute rating and look at fire temperatures. Remember I stated Cannon subjected the safe to basically a large oven, but the safe was NOT tested against an actual fire.

The outer edge of a flame is red in color and 980.F. The middle of a flame is orange, and the outer edge of orange is 2000.F (I'm not going into white or blue flames). So if a safe is surrounded or engulfed in flames the safe is subjected to greater temperatures than the 1200.F fire rating.So let's say the safe is stuck in a 2000.F flame, how long will it take the internal temperature to hit 351.F, 35-40 minutes? Now how long will it take before.22 LR start popping off at 275.F, 25 minutes?

I am also a safe techIn the entry level gun 'safe', Cannon is about on par with most others and a frequently purchased model. They were using S/G or LaGard group 2 locks; have seen a couple lately that had unmarked locks which may indicate a lesser qualityStay away from the digital lock. A frequent call I get is a failed elock; and the most frequent brand is Cannon. Read the warranty closely; Cannon will replace the failed lock.

BUT they do not cover the expense of having the lock replaced; if the safe is locked, that means no coverage of a safe tech opening the safe-not cheap. Often the owner wants the elock replaced with a dial lock; this is usually a direct replacement. Mounting footprint of the lock is the same and door is predrilled for dial ring screwsI use a ca 1908 Mosler double door that cost $50 and a good cleaning; lock (4 number plus drop) works as smooth as any new one. Safe weighs over 2000 lbs. I agree with this, my safe is rated at 2300 at 60 minutes and I still don't think that is good enough so I got a honeywell large document fire safe to slide into it for my irreplaceable items like wedding photos, hard drives, documents etcLet's talk about safes and their fire protection, and we'll use the safe doubleot asked about.

Remember I stated Cannon subjected the safe to basically a large oven, but the safe was NOT tested against an actual fire. The outer edge of a flame is red in color and 980.F. The middle of a flame is orange, and the outer edge of orange is 2000.F (I'm not going into white or blue flames). So if a safe is surrounded or engulfed in flames the safe is subjected to greater temperatures than the 1200.F fire rating.So let's say the safe is stuck in a 2000.F flame, how long will it take the internal temperature to hit 351.F, 35-40 minutes? Now how long will it take before.22 LR start popping off at 275.F, 25 minutes?

Those are just guessing numbers as it's way to early for math and I'm eating breakfast lol. Knox and AmSec rate their safes around the 1700.F range, and one of the two (or both) goes to 1800-1900.F if I remember correctly.Reference:Fire color temps: cookoff temps: under the, 'Myth: Ammunition is protected in my fireproof gun safe' section. I use the safe for other items than guns. Family memorabilia (jewelry, coins, etc.), titles, hard drive back ups for business and personal docs. Also when we go on vacation, we place jewelry, keys, etc. In it as well.You'd be surprised how much 'stuff' you'll find that you'd like secured once you get one.

Pick up one you like is the correct size, then upgrade to the next model and size. You'll use it.Nothing like having everything in one spot with basically a giant sign on it saying 'Steal me if you can'.

If you keep ammo in your safe you either have a much larger safe than me or not enough ammo.My Liberty Franklin is considered a fairly decent safe but it's not 7ga construction. I did build it in with foundation wall on one side and studded walls on the other side and back. 3/4' ply on the safe side and drywall on the other side. I also built a cabinet above and have it secured to the basement floor. Nobody's tipping it over or easily going in the sides or the back (the most vulnerable places).

I don't care too much about fire protection. If I lose the contents of my safe to a fire that will mean I pretty much lost my house and belongings and my guns just aren't that important in comparison. My kids are grown and I live in what's considered a safe neighborhood but you never know. The safe will stop theft in a smash and grab robbery but unless you spend a ton of money you won't stop a determined thief if you can stop a determined thief at all. Buy the best you can afford and if it isn't much plan on upgrading later. Build a platform to get it off the floor and anchor through the platform securely into the floor.My safe came with an e-lock and before I put a gun in it I had the lock changed to an S&G mechanical.

The e-lock is great, I could pop it open in seconds without my glasses but I know a few safe guys and they all told me it will most likely cause me trouble sooner or later. A good mechanical lock maintained should outlast me. It takes a bit longer to get into and I do need my glasses but I'll never need to get in it in a hurry to get a gun, there's always one on me. ^^^^^ +1It's called insurance. I don't need a mega safe in my house.I have made a reasonable attempt to secure my guns for firearm safety.USAA has 'Valuable Personal Property' insurance. For $10 a year, my firearms are covered against theft, damage (if I dropped a rifle for example), etc etc.

The deductible is ZERO, NADA, NOTHING. (Guns get stolen - I get new replacement guns for free)If I didn't want to pay the $10 annually, my guns would fall under my regular homeowners insurance and would still be covered, but I would have to pay my $1,000 deductible. If that was the case - it wouldn't make sense to spend over $1,000 for a safe?You must not have guns that have sentimental value or that were passed down to you. For that reason alone I could care less about getting insurance money because I wouldn't replace many of them because they would not be the same one my grandfather/dad/father in law gave me.

I would rather spend some money up front on a secure safe so I can pass them on and not the one I bought with insurance money. Right before christmas, I purchased a gun safe. I weighed through my options and went with an average big box 64 gun safe from Dicks Sporting Goods. It was $699 on sale and weighs 528lbs.When I weighed in my options, I included things like:- How long will I live at my current residence?- How far do I live from fire department/ do I live in a fire district?- What's the response time for police?- Do I have an alarm with burglary and fire sensors in case no one is home?I think these key elements weigh in a whole lot to what YOU need. If I lived in the country, with a fire department staffed by volunteers, it would take a much longer time than where I currently live (about 3 minutes to either of 2 fire departments around me). Same with police response time. A 30 minute drive for the sheriff to make it to my house is much different than knowing that the cops sit at the gas station a couple hundred yards from my house.

Add that to the fact that I'm wanting to build within the next 5 years and I don't feel like I need a significant safe. The last part of my security is that I didn't post on Facebook that I bought a gun safe.

Sure, I posted here, but I didn't share it with all of my 'friends' that know where I live and see when I am out of town.BTW- I tested it on the way home when it slide out of my truck at a red light and got beat up. It stood up with only cosmetic damage. Like most things, it's about deterrence, not prevention. If someone wants your guns bad enough, they will get them.

I've seen pictures of safes literally drug down the street. So, what are you trying to deter: thieves, fire, water, etc.1 - Fireproof safes are great, except I've never fired a gun that's been baked for a few hours, but 'undamaged'. Not sure how that works out.2 - A gunshop in Texas had a fire and posted pictures. The fire lasted 15 minutes.

Every gun not in a safe was destroyed, by the humidity of the fire/water. They almost instantly suffered from rust. Something to think about.3 - What type of guns? Family heirlooms, or guns you can buy off the rack.4 - How often do you go shooting?I ask number 4, because maybe you consider a room, instead of a safe. Depending on how big, a room can serve several purposes: gun storage, family safe room, gun cleaning room (with proper ventilation), etc. A gun room would make ranges sessions a breeze. Come home, walk into the room, drop your gear, and walk out.

No need to unload range bags, etc., right away, because you just dropped everything in the 'safe'. Go relax with he family, then empty the bag, clean guns, etc., at your convenience.Before you say building a safe room would be hard, all of the details, and even the parts lists, are posted for you on FEMA's website.it's a storm room. If the door and walls will stop a 2x4 going 65MPH, i'm guessing they'll slow a thief down plenty. You could go nuts, adding HVAC, exhaust fans, etc., etc.Also, if you consider a basement saferoom, you might already have two or three poured concrete walls for your room, making it much simpler.

I feel the ceiling is the real challenge, given potential water coming from above.Regardless of what you do, get insurance and don't use a homeowner's rider. Get separate insurance from a company that understands gun values, won't argue that the gun isn't warped, etc. I use Eastern Insurance - A Hanover Company.Google Historic Firearms, Collectibles, and you'll find their information. I have no affiliation, but they were the best price and coverage I could find. And it's VERY reasonable - $.0035 per $1,000 of coverage. No itemization of guns required, unless you have one single item more than $10,000, or total items are more than $60,000 - I wish:drool: They also cover many types of sport items, not just guns.I pretty much could care less what happens when I'm not home.

I have alarms/dogs/lights and insurance. I hate to sound like a commercial, but I honestly rest easier with the insurance. I am in the safe business so let me add a few things here.The best gun safe when price is no object are from Graffunder. I've seen a lot of gun safes and I don't think anything compares to them. They start at a insurance 'B' rating (1/2' plate steel door and 1/4' walls) and go up to E Rate which is 1 1/2' plate steel door with 1' walls as well as custom options. They use a poured concrete-like fire liner giving even their 1/4' wall safes about 2' of thickness and a good burglary and fire resistance. Thicker safes offer even better protection:The best gun safe for people on a budget are the Amsec BF Series Safes They have an honest 1/2' plate steel door and also have a poured light concrete fire liner and inner steel wall giving the safes also almost 2' of protection from fire and burglars.

Their HS series safes are even heavier and feature a true UL listed burglary rating from a TL-15 to TL-30 (Tool resistant ratings):Amsec is a true safe company. What I mean by that is they make commercial safes for their primary business. The BF series Amsec safe is FAR more secure than even the best major brand gun safe you commonly see.The Graffunder can be had for the price of the high-end mainstream safes you see and completely blows them out of the water in terms of fit, finish and security. There is no comparison.Electronic locks vs. Honestly there isn't much difference in overall security for most applications. Burglars don't manipulate locks open. They tend to attack them with hand or power tools.

I've never seen a safe professionally drilled open by a burglar to bypass the lock. It takes many thousands of dollars in specialized equipment, drill bits, bore scopes and knowledge to do this and the average meth tweaker just doesn't have these things.What they do have though are those power tools you left in your garage next to your safe and that big crow bar you left leaning up against the wall next to the sledgehammer. So worry more about how much steel your safe has on the door and walls and not whether they are going to bypass the lock. Make sure the safe you have in your home can withstand the power tools you also have there because they can, and often are, used to attack safes.With that said, my personal opinion are mechanical Group I type locks (manipulation resistant) are the most secure and also the least likely to break (no motors and solenoids to go bad).

HOWEVER, they are not as fast to get into either. If you want a reliable electronic lock I'd lean towards the LaGard brand and would avoid the Sargent and Greenleaf electronic locks (although their mechanical locks are great). Other electronic lock brands fall between these two extremes for reliability. In short: Electronic locks = convenience. Mechanical locks = reliability. You have to pick one or the other.

Mechanical locks can fail and cause a lockout, but this is far more common with electronic locks.Bolt down your safe. I don't really care how heavy it is unless it's something more than a couple thousand pounds. I've seen very large safes stolen. It happens all the time. If someone got the safe into your house, then it can be gotten out. One man with an appliance dolly can remove a typical gun safe if you think about it.

So go to the hardware store and spend 10 bucks on some anchor bolts and tie that thing down to your foundation. Any safe, no matter how strong, is going to be opened if the crooks get it back to their own shop and have time to work on it.Safes are lightning rods for burglars and you can be sure that if they come across your safe when in your home it's going to draw more than casual attention. So that means you need it to be able to withstand protracted and perhaps brutal attacks for many minutes, or perhaps longer. The only way to make sure this can happen is for the safe to have lots of steel in it and perhaps some concrete of some type. The Graffunder and Amsec safes do this. Other safe brands you commonly see do not. Be sure to bolt these other safes down as that will increase their protection.You should also place your safe out of obvious view (for instance I wouldn't put it in a garage where someone could see it from the street).

I also would tend to put it in a corner with perhaps the opening edge closer to the wall (so door opens away from the wall and not towards it). Because by doing so you make it harder for someone to get pry tools to work on the opening edge with the wall in the way.

It's much harder for them to get leverage as they will hit the wall when putting the biting edge of a crow bar on the opening side.Bolt Work: Honestly this is just a marketing gimmick. More bolts does not mean a safe is more secure necessarily. It may just mean it's more prone to failure as there are more linkages to go bad.

I've worked on very large high security Jeweler's safes with just eight bolts (insured to hold $1,000,000+ in jewels). There is no way that these gun safes with 32+ bolts on them are more secure than those jeweler's safes. So don't worry about number of bolts. Worry about how much steel that thing has in the walls and door.Other things in a safe to avoid are people claiming that internal hinges are 'more secure.' This is a myth. Hinges on a properly designed safe just keep the door from falling on your foot when it opens.

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They shouldn't affect security if cut off. I'm also leery of putting in those electric dehumidifiers just in case they have a problem and ignite everything inside your safe. I also wouldn't store my ammo in the safe as it could cause problems during a fire.In closing, gun safe companies put out a lot of hyperbole.

The thing that matters most is whether the safe has lots of steel in the door and walls and whether they are using a poured insulating layer for fire protection and not drywall. Most gun safes do not have these features.

The Graffunder and Amsec BF and higher series safes do. As a retired security advisor, I suggest alarming your safe, no matter what kind it is. Place a triple balanced door contact on the inside and run the wires to the safe from the wall behind it, hidden as much as possible, and in armored cable.

Be sure that the contact is wired, and your panel is programed, for tamper protection, so if the bad guys notice the wire and cut it, an alarm will be generated.Some may not want to do this, but in my experience, if the alarm zone for your safe is named something like 'gun vault intrusion' AND IF the central station passes that information on when they notify the dispatch center, the law enforcement will make a little extra effort to respond promptly. The Costco Cannon safe will do just fine, as long as you understand a safe is a deterrent not an end all means to stop a 'professional' thief.I have had sentry 24 gun and a Cannon 48 gun safe for years. Both do the job perfectly fine.

My first safe was not fire lined. I have regretted that ever since.

I have others now, but as I am a firefighter by trade, I tend to look at worst case scenarios. You know your budget, you get what you pay for. Where is the Cannon safe made?

Is it rebranded from somewhere else? Does it include transport? I went with a company about 15 miles from me that has a scratch and dent sale now and again.

Price included delivery as well as bolting down to the floor. Another thing I did was pick up an old Post Office safe. Does not fit rifles well though.I own a Liberty Fat Boy Jr. And a Browning Pro Steel as well as the postal safe.So, Fire lined, good lock. As a guy told me one time, 'the guy who can get into your safe is going to be robbing my store, not your house'. Don't get one with a key, use a combo lock.

Just my.02.You being a fire fighter, how many safes do you hear about that get wet inside from your fire fighting? A firearm collector cousin of mine had a 'fire proof' safe that all the contents got wet from 100+ mph hurricane winds blowing water in (during hurricane Andrew). This was a large safe with approx 80 firearms inside and yrs of legal paperwork for his business.

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I am more worried about the fire rating than worried any local meth or crack head is going to try to haul of my safes.Unfortunately, the 'fire ratings' of most gun safes are pure fantasy.Remember if you keep your 'personal defense weapon' inside the safe, it will be just as hard for you to get access to it in an emergency as the intruder.except for the minor difference that I know the combination and he doesn't. But even so, my PDW doesn't live in the safe.A safe is just one of the layers of security you should be considering.Absolutely.

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S&G locks for example are standard on Liberty, Browning, Champion, and Fort Knox gun safes. Changing Combinations, Easy, often can have multiple combinations Post navigation.