• Bmx Serial Number Database
• Decode Giant Serial Number

I'm trying to find what kind of brand/make my bike is so I can find more information about it. It might help me determine if I should buy a new bike.All I can tell from looking around my bike are the words 'Challenger' and 'Resistance'. It's a hand-me-down mountain bike, I haven't got a manual or receipt for the bike so I suspect there must be some way of finding out otherwise.I've searched for 'Challenger Resistance' on the web and the best result I received was from of an identical bike. Here's what my bike looks like:I'd like to know how to identify bikes. I think that would be more valuable then If someone told me what brand I have. The usual method of identifying a bike is what you've done.The brand and model are usually part of the decals on the frame.My bike, for example, says Scott on the downtube, and CR1 Pro on the toptube near the headset.It is Swiss made, and the model stands for comfort road 1, and Pro tells you what parts were on it originally.If there are no decals, an experienced mechanic or shop owner can usually identify most common frames.Your bike is very basic, at best, and most people would not consider it safe for use on off road trails. I would recommend looking for a shop quality mountain bike.

You will enjoy riding more, and that is what it's all about. Feel free to ask if you need more information. I suggested a new bike because I've been where you are. My first non-kid bike that i bought, was a bike very similar to what you have there. It lasted me only a few months, but I was trying to ride it offroad.

In the process of that I hooked up with some guys who worked at a local bike shop, and one of them loaned be an old spare bike he had replaced. That bike wasn't good enough for him to be willing to ride it anymore, but it was light years better than what I had. I'm not telling you what bike is best for you. That's between you, your wallet, and your LBS.

I am saying if that's the only.–Jul 21 '11 at 17:39. That is a 'Bicycle Shaped Object' with any-old name plastered on the frame. It is 'off-brand'.Years ago it was possible to identify bikes by the quality of the welds, shapes of the lugs, shapes of the dropouts and choice of components. However, with 'Bicycle Shaped Objects' this is sadly not possible.There are probably countless variants of this exact same item with different labels on at your local supermarket, in Halfords and other places that should not really be in the bicycle business.I would not worry too much about the brand, just enjoy riding! The actual named frame size is not important. Rather the dimensions of the frame are what matters. One company might call your bike a 17' model and a frame with the same top tube, stand over etc by another company is considered an 18'!

Hope that makes sense! If you are happy with the fit, record the measurements and should you decide to get a new frame seek one out that mirrors those measurements.

Most cyclists know their own measurements. As far as age goes.it really does not matter unless it is constantly breaking down. I am hearing you are itching to get a new rig!!–Jul 21 '11 at 17:43. You can determine the approximate frame size by finding a 'diamond frame' bike which has approximately the same critical dimensions, particularly the distance from head tube to seat tube (measured horizontally, extending the seat tube along an imaginary line if necessary to do this). Then measure that bike from the top of the seat tube to the center point of the crank (though some measure to different points, giving a variability of +/- 2' or so). (There may be a table on the internet somewhere of typical dimensions for a given frame size, but I didn't find one with a quick Google.)–Jul 21 '11 at 19:00. Bicycles of this type are churned out by the many thousands and simply 'branded' to various distributors.

They are invariably very cheaply made; often with all-steel components and the lowest-possible level of brakes,shifters, and other components.They are as alike as peas in a pod otherwise. Other than doing the normal sort of maintenance, lubing the chain, keeping fasteners tight. There's very little that needs to be done to them, and if some major part fails they are simply not worth repairing.Around the university where I work, you see bikes identical to yours branded as 'Pacific', 'Next', 'Magna', and various others. The basic problem is that an assembly line in China is spewing forth bicycles of the same design, then, at the end of the line, one gets Brand A decals, the next gets Brand B, the third Brand C. Some of the brands will be 'no-name' brands, some will be 'house' brands for your larger department stores, and some will be recognizable bike brands - 'Raleigh', 'Schwinn', et al.Unfortunately, the quality, fit, and finish of the bike is unique to that assembly line (and the particular model being built), and the factory next door is producing an entirely different bike, of different quality, as will this factory a month from now.

So the quality of this bike is no indication of the quality (or fit) of a different bike bearing the same 'maker's' badge.Your more reputable distributors and rebadgers will take some effort to assure that the bikes meet some minimal quality standards, but it's not like buying a more expensive 'brand' bike where the brand people have overseen (to at least a minimal degree) the design and construction of the bike.

HOW OLD IS MY BICYCLE - INTRODUCTIONFRAME & FORK SET VINTAGE CLUESFor the most part, studying a bicycle frame set'scharacteristics, can help in determining a bicycle's vintage.However, using those characteristics can be horribly misleading.In other words, this article will act as a guide, rather than a map,revealing land marks, rather than sign posts. You might not findthe correct house, but you will at least end up in the rightneighbourhood.Let's assume, for the moment, that cutting edge Velotechnology is reserved for top of the line, or close to it, models.And, let's also assume that, sooner or later, the top end technology willtrickle down to lesser steeds.

Assuming that to be true, one mustunderstand that the trickle down system, spans both years and, oftentimes, decades.With decades in mind, consider vintage road bicycles fromthe fifties, sixties, seventies and eighties. Though the bikes alllook much the same, as they blend through the years, there are distinctframe characteristic differences that suggest age. Remember, theclues offered by the frame set, with respect to its vintage, are onlyclues and not perfect indicators of exactly how old any bicycle mightbe.What frame and fork set characteristics fall under the microscope?Tube set? Drop-out type? Serial number? Frame material? Drop-out spacing(front and back)?

Color combinations? Forkcrown style? Fasten technology? There are many things to consider, when seeking tounderstand the detail, inherent in every vintage road bicycle frame andfork set.SERIAL NUMBERSAs the interest in vintage road bicycles grows, serialnumber data bases grow too. In other words, though not allbicycles are represented with an on line serial number data base, someare. Raleigh, is the first that comes to mind butothers areavailable. Execute an online search for Raleigh serialnumbers and see what happens!

Or Nishiki, or Holdsworth,or what ever. What one seeks might already be offered.Do not get too excited about serial numbers. Someserial number information can be misleading. Peugeots from France,for example, cannot demonstrate what is and what is not, this year orthat. Similar situations will continue to prevail, for sometime, as the open community adds information to the vintage bicycleinterest, such as this article is attempting to do right now.None the less, if you do stumble across a data base ofserial numbers and corresponding information, then chances are you willknow when the bike was built, in what month and, perhaps even wheremade. For example, some Raleighs were built in the Carlton factoryin Worksop England. That would be an important clue to have onhand, assuming one knows a bit about the Carlton factory, and itsinteraction with Raleigh.TUBING TYPE?Virtually every vintage road bicycle frame set is madeout of pipe or tubing, be the material of choice either steel oraluminum.

In all fairness, some might argue that early carbonfibre frame sets might qualify as vintage. Regardless, the older a bicycle is, the more likely itwill be made from some form of steel, be it straight gauge steel, hightensile steel or some alloy offering great strength and light weight.So, most bicycles, from the beginning oftime, rightthrough to the early eighties, will be made of some form of steel pipeor tubing. If there is still a decal or sticker, indicating tubingmake and/or type, simply do a search, on the net, for that tubing.For example searching for some information on Reynoldstubing,one of the two grails of vintage road bicycle tube sets, produces a veryuseful vintage determination page. You can dothe same for Columbus, Ishiwata, or what ever.

In most instances,some information will present itself, if you search diligently.Itis entirely possible that the actual decal will be hard to find, and/oridentify. Often times, the tubing decal would have been installedright where the rider would carry his/her tire pump. In so doing, ofcourse, the decal would often be scuffed up, sometimes to the point ofbeing gone all together.Or, how about the period tubing decal in anotherlanguage? That's right, not everyone speaks Canadian - eh.The point is, observe what you can, if you can, then do a search and compare.You just might get pretty close to the target.Of course, if you search for information on other tubing types, it isquite possible that no results will present themselves, hence a deadend. But fear not.FRAME/FORK SET DETAILSFrame set details, things that cannot be changed withoutgreat difficulty, will help to narrow down vintage, much of the time.For simplicity's sake, understand that the rules offered are general,apply to most situations but can prove to be misleading. So, donot think the following examples are cast in stone.Braze-ons are frame features that assist in attachingvarious components (front derailleur, shifters, transmission cableguides, water bottle mounts) to the bicycle frame set.Older machines, generally, will have fewer braze-ons.Braze-onstyle, and even location, tended to change over the years.

Forexample, derailleur cable guides, first clamp-ons and then braze-ons,were located on top of the bottom bracket. Later bikes saw, andcontinued to see, them attached underneath but an inherent problemprevailed with either design - wear. The cable, rubbing on thebraze-on would result in wear, and weareventuallyright through the braze-on. The final cable guide location wasunderneath, in braze-on like form, but protected with nylon lining.Shifters were traditionally clamp-on units. OldSchool technology, at its best. However, technology changed, andso did the securing of the shift levers. Down tube braze-ons beganappearing in the very late seventies and took over in the eighties.These features would work with down tube shifters, stem shifters andeven the modern Brifter system.Rearbrake cable guides changed in style and location in much the samefashion.

Each style or location change focusing on improvedperformance, or durability or both. With the coming of theeighties, the most common location and style of rear brake cable guidewas on the top of the top tube and full casing style.And so it goes with many frame set features.

Fujitsu siemens scaleo p wlan drivers. Cluesthat help to ball park a frame set's age. Sometimes pretty closeand sometimes not. Though not GPS perfect, they will help one geta feel for probable era of manufacture.

Bmx Serial Number Database

Following is a list, ifyou will, of common frame set features that can all be considered whenattempting to define vintage of a bicycle.COMMON FRAME SET CHARACTERISTICSOLDER(1950, 68)TRANSITION(1968 - 1975)NEWER(1976, 1980+)Key Indicator: General lack of braze-on. Headbadge likely. Solid colors. Mostly France, Italy,and England bicycles present.

Some domestic bicyclesoffered.Key Indicator: General lack of braze-ons but beginning tobecome more common. Solid colors. More domesticofferings and some Asian bicycles present. Movementtowards better quality after Bike Boom of 1971/72.Key Indicator: Braze-ons moreplentiful.

Different styles and locations. BrighterColors, fancy paint, alloy frames more common, both lugged andwelded. More Asian than European present. Increasein domestic builders.Frame Material/Structure: Usually,andbeing the most common. Straight gauge mostcommon, but some butted examples surfacing.Frame Material/Structure: Primarily lugged steel, withsome.

Decode Giant Serial Number

Tubing structure begins to leantowards butting and double butting. More examples ofaluminum alloy surfacing.Frame Material/Structure: Steel,lugged or un-lugged. Aluminum,but mostly, become more prevalent.

Carbon fibre makes adebut, soon to become the material of choice, for the best ofthe best.Braze-Ons: Almost none. Some attempts, offeringvery different and uncommon solutions to replacing clamp-ons.Braze-Ons: Few in the early seventies but beginning tobecome more prevalent by the middle of the decade. Manybraze-ons by the end of the seventies and locations become morestandard. More tubing types.Braze-Ons: Just about everything wasbraze-on by the mid eighties. Locations were mostlydefined by what worked best. Lots of fancy paint jobs.Many tubing types.WaterBottle Mounts: Rare in older bicycles. Usually,bottles holders were clamp-on or handlebar mounted.WaterBottle Mounts: Still few clamp-ons, fewer handlebarholders and some braze-ons beginning to appear.WaterBottle Mounts: Braze-on exclusively.

Often timeson down tube and seat tube.BottomBracket: No braze-on, cable routing usually achievedwith a clamp-on. Possible unusual.BottomBracket: Braze-ons just beginning, usually attached tothe top of the bottom bracket.BottomBracket: Braze on-ons gone or underneath the bottombracket. Braze-on might be gone, replaced by nylon guides,screw attached to the underside of the bottom bracket.RearBrake Cable Guide: Clamp-on guides were the mostcommon. Somecable routing.RearBrake Cable Guide: Clamp-ons for the first half of theseventies, then braze-ons began appearing in different stylesand locations (,)RearBrake Cable Guide: Braze-on almost exclusively andmore through the tube routing.

Usually located on the topof the top tube.RearDerailleur Attachment: Direct screw mount to integralhanger or screw on bracket adaptor.RearDerailleur Attachment: Direct screw mount to integralhanger or screw on bracket adaptor.RearDerailleur Attachment: Direct screw mount to integralhanger or screw on bracket adaptor.FrontDerailleur Attachment: Clamp-On exclusively.FrontDerailleur Attachment: Clamp-on for better part of theseventies, withbeginning to surface with the approach of theeighties.FrontDerailleur Attachment: Almost all front derailleursare attached with braze-on technology. Lesser bikes, eventoday, still rely on clamp-on.RearDerailleur Cable Guide: Usually a clamp-on fitted tothe drive side chain stay.RearDerailleur Cable Guide: As the seventies progressed,the clamp-on cable guide became less used, finally giving way toa single braze-on.RearDerailleur Cable Guide: Braze-on exclusively andusually located on the underside of the drive side chain stay.Shifters:Almost exclusively clamp-on.infrequent but present. Friction only.Shifters:Movement away from the clamp on the the braze-on. Alwayslocated in the same spot.make their debut.Shifters:Almost exclusively braze-on, for either shifters. Always the same located in thesame area.SocketHead Screws: Rarely found on pre-seventies bicycles.Hex nuts were the standard.SocketHead Screws: Beginning to surface in the mid-seventieson some high end bikes. Best frame indicator will berecessed brake calliper mounting holes.SocketHead Screws: Huge use from the early eighties, untilpresent day.Rear Drop-Outs: Almost exclusively long horizontal.Rear Drop-Outs: Mostly long horizontal but somenear end of decade.

Most European haveadjusters.often times lack adjusters.Rear Drop-Outs: Fewer longhorizontal, more short horizontal, some vertical drops.Adjusters both common and uncommon.Drop-OutSpacing: Older bikes will measure 120mm, rear insidedrop face to inside drop face., = 95mm usually.Drop-OutSpacing: Face to face measurement increases to 125mm,towards end of decade, to accommodate six cog freewheels.Front, face to face = 100mm increasingly often.Drop-OutSpacing: Face to face increase to 130mm to make roomfor eight cogs and up. 100mm is standard for front dropsface spread.Paint/Art:It is not uncommon for a bicycle's art to include actual dates,often times indicating when the bicycle won an important race.Primarilyart.Paint/Art:Other special art offerings can, infrequently, offer clues toassist in determining vintage. This One Hour commemorative, being a prime example. Mixture ofdecals and.Paint/Art:New technology makes psychedelic and patterned paint possibleand the eighties exploited the new opportunity. Decalswere fully replaced with stickers.ForkCrown: Flat lugged crown most common, often ornateand/or chrome plated.ForkCrown: Sloping crown began to appear, sharing space with thetraditional lugged crown, at the beginning of the seventies,continuing till present day.ForkCrown: The Unicrown fork found acceptance in later half of theeighties.Though there are many features toconsider on a vintage frame set, few will point directly to specificyearof manufacture.

With the exception of bicycle serial numbers,there are few opportunities to otherwise pin-point exact vintage.That said, once the general clues are learned, it does become easier toquickly recognize an old bicycle from a newer one, and with a fairdegree of accuracy. And, with practice, the skill will becomerefined, allowing for increasingly accurate guesses. And that isstill all the end conclusions will be - the results of guesses.Butthere is a way to supplement, and perhaps refine, what the frame set'scharacteristics suggest.COPYRIGHT(2008): mytenspeeds.com.